All plants

Cilantro

Coriandrum sativum

Apiaceae · carrot family

Origin · Mediterranean · Western Asia

Also known as · Coriander

Matures
1–2 months
Harvest
Over a period · Annual
Sun
4–8 hrs
Spacing
2–4 in
Botanical engraving of Cilantro

Planting window

When to sow, by microclimate — foggier blocks run a different calendar than sunnier ones.

JanFebMarAprMayJun
Foggy◐◐●●●●
Sunny◐◐●●●◐
JulAugSepOctNovDec
Foggy●●●●◐◐
Sunny◐●●●◐◐
Well-suitedMarginalNot suited
See in planting calendar

Sunlight

How well it does at each level of direct sun per day.

<2 hrsNot suited
2–4 hrsMarginal
4–6 hrsWell-suited
6–8 hrsWell-suited
8+ hrsMarginal
Well-suitedMarginalNot suited

Soil depth

Root room it needs — useful for sizing raised beds and containers.

6–10"Marginal
10–15"Well-suited
15–18"Well-suited
18–24"Well-suited
Well-suitedMarginalNot suited

Soil pH

The soil acidity it grows best in — most crops sit just below neutral, so this mostly matters for heavily amended or long-reused beds.

Preferred range
pH 6.5

Spacing

Room each plant needs — along the row and between rows — for sizing beds.

In-row
2–4 in
Between rows
2–4 in

Growth habit

The shape it makes in the bed and how tall it gets — what tells you whether to give it a trellis, a stake, or just room.

Habit
Upright
Mature height
1–2 ft

Stands on its own; the tallest types appreciate a stake in wind.

Growing in containers

Whether it does well in a pot, planter, or window box — the SF balcony-and-deck question, weighing its footprint, form, and staying power, not just root depth.

Thrives in pots

Happy in a pot, planter, or window box — no garden bed required.

How to start it

Sow it where it grows, or raise it under cover and set it out — and how far ahead to start the seedlings if it's the latter.

Usually
Direct-sow
Start indoors
4 weeks ahead
Direct-sowWell-suited
TransplantWell-suited

Sown straight into the bed it will grow in.

Well-suitedMarginalNot suited

Getting started

How it goes in the ground — how deep to sow or set it, and the soil temperature it needs to wake up. The cold-soil floor is the real limiter for direct-sowing in a foggy SF spring.

Started from
From seed
Ideal soil temp
60°F
Sow depth
0.25–0.5 in
Time to emerge
7–10 days

Germinates between 55–70°F; happiest around 60°F.

30°F110°F
IdealWorkable

Watering & feeding

How thirsty and how hungry it is — the water it wants and how much feeding the bed needs to keep it producing. In the fog belt even a thirsty crop drinks less than it would inland.

Water need
Moderate

Wants steady, even moisture — roughly an inch a week, a little more in a heat spell.

Feeding
Moderate feeder

A balanced feed worked into the bed at planting usually carries it through the season.

Water regularly while establishing, then it needs less — don't overwater, as it dislikes soggy soil. A moderate feeder.

Pests & diseases

What tends to trouble this crop — what it is, what you'll see, and what to do about it, least-toxic first.

Pests1

Leafhoppers
What it is
Leaf stippling (bleached specks) is commonly the most obvious indication that leafhoppers or certain other arthropods that suck plant juices are present. Because discolored spots or overall bleaching of leaves are also caused by lace bugs, plant bugs and other true bugs, spider mites, and thrips, examine the underside of leaves for the arthropods themselves to distinguish the cause of damage.
What you'll see
Leafhopper feeding causes leaves to develop pale specks (stippling). Leaves and shoot tips fed upon by an abundance of leafhoppers may turn yellow then brown and curl and die.
What to do
In most situations, leafhoppers are just an annoyance or curiosity and do not threaten plant survival. Leafhoppers have many natural enemies, including assassin bugs, brown lacewings, damsel bugs, green lacewings, lady beetles, minute pirate bugs, and spiders.
More on leafhoppers at UC IPM

Diseases2

Aster’s Yellow Disease
What you'll see
The disease is caused by leafhoppers; flowers turn yellow, plant grows tall and spindly, plant eventually becomes sterile.
What to do
Use appropriate insecticide to control leafhoppers (the carriers of the disease).
More on aster’s yellow disease at Utah State University Extension
Damping Off or Seedling Rot
What you'll see
Death of new seedlings and yellowing of plants.
What to do
Crop Rotation.
More on damping off or seedling rot at Utah State University Extension

Harvest & storage

How to tell it's ready to pick, and how to keep it once it's in.

Keeps
DaysBest eaten within a few days of picking.
Ready to harvest
Cut the outer leaves about a month after sowing, before the plant bolts in warm weather; for coriander seed, wait until it turns tan.
Storing
Stand the cut stems in water in the fridge and use within a few days; the leaves don't dry well. Store dried seed in a jar.

Culinary use & nutrition

What it's for in the kitchen, and the nutrients a 100 g raw serving is a notable source of.

In the kitchen

  • Seasoning

Nutrition highlights

Excellent source
Vitamin K, Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Copper
Good source
Manganese, Vitamin E, Folate, Riboflavin, Potassium, Fiber

Share of the Daily Value in a 100 g raw serving (USDA FoodData Central).

Pollinators & wildlife

What this crop offers the garden's wildlife once it flowers — often the payoff for letting a bolting plant stand.

Bees
Honeybees and natives — bumble, mason, and sweat bees — working the flowers for pollen and nectar.
Beneficial insects
Hoverflies, lady beetles, and parasitoid wasps that keep aphids and caterpillars down.

The strongest umbel of the family here: let it bolt and the lacy white flowers pull in honey bees and sweat bees alongside hoverflies and green lacewings, so a bolted plant earns its keep twice.

Sources

Growing data on this page is drawn from UC Master Gardeners, Santa Clara County, Utah State University Extension, and the other references on our sources page.