Cilantro
Coriandrum sativum
Apiaceae · carrot family
Origin · Mediterranean · Western Asia
Also known as · Coriander
- Matures
- 1–2 months
- Harvest
- Over a period · Annual
- Sun
- 4–8 hrs
- Spacing
- 2–4 in

Planting window
When to sow, by microclimate — foggier blocks run a different calendar than sunnier ones.
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Foggy | ◐ | ◐ | ● | ● | ● | ● |
| Sunny | ◐ | ◐ | ● | ● | ● | ◐ |
| Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Foggy | ● | ● | ● | ● | ◐ | ◐ |
| Sunny | ◐ | ● | ● | ● | ◐ | ◐ |
Sunlight
How well it does at each level of direct sun per day.
Soil depth
Root room it needs — useful for sizing raised beds and containers.
Soil pH
The soil acidity it grows best in — most crops sit just below neutral, so this mostly matters for heavily amended or long-reused beds.
- Preferred range
- pH 6.5
Spacing
Room each plant needs — along the row and between rows — for sizing beds.
- In-row
- 2–4 in
- Between rows
- 2–4 in
Growth habit
The shape it makes in the bed and how tall it gets — what tells you whether to give it a trellis, a stake, or just room.
- Habit
- Upright
- Mature height
- 1–2 ft
Stands on its own; the tallest types appreciate a stake in wind.
Growing in containers
Whether it does well in a pot, planter, or window box — the SF balcony-and-deck question, weighing its footprint, form, and staying power, not just root depth.
Happy in a pot, planter, or window box — no garden bed required.
How to start it
Sow it where it grows, or raise it under cover and set it out — and how far ahead to start the seedlings if it's the latter.
- Usually
- Direct-sow
- Start indoors
- 4 weeks ahead
Sown straight into the bed it will grow in.
Getting started
How it goes in the ground — how deep to sow or set it, and the soil temperature it needs to wake up. The cold-soil floor is the real limiter for direct-sowing in a foggy SF spring.
- Started from
- From seed
- Ideal soil temp
- 60°F
- Sow depth
- 0.25–0.5 in
- Time to emerge
- 7–10 days
Germinates between 55–70°F; happiest around 60°F.
Watering & feeding
How thirsty and how hungry it is — the water it wants and how much feeding the bed needs to keep it producing. In the fog belt even a thirsty crop drinks less than it would inland.
- Water need
- Moderate
- Feeding
- Moderate feeder
Wants steady, even moisture — roughly an inch a week, a little more in a heat spell.
A balanced feed worked into the bed at planting usually carries it through the season.
Water regularly while establishing, then it needs less — don't overwater, as it dislikes soggy soil. A moderate feeder.
Pests & diseases
What tends to trouble this crop — what it is, what you'll see, and what to do about it, least-toxic first.
Pests1
Leafhoppers
- What it is
- Leaf stippling (bleached specks) is commonly the most obvious indication that leafhoppers or certain other arthropods that suck plant juices are present. Because discolored spots or overall bleaching of leaves are also caused by lace bugs, plant bugs and other true bugs, spider mites, and thrips, examine the underside of leaves for the arthropods themselves to distinguish the cause of damage.
- What you'll see
- Leafhopper feeding causes leaves to develop pale specks (stippling). Leaves and shoot tips fed upon by an abundance of leafhoppers may turn yellow then brown and curl and die.
- What to do
- In most situations, leafhoppers are just an annoyance or curiosity and do not threaten plant survival. Leafhoppers have many natural enemies, including assassin bugs, brown lacewings, damsel bugs, green lacewings, lady beetles, minute pirate bugs, and spiders.
Diseases2
Aster’s Yellow Disease
- What you'll see
- The disease is caused by leafhoppers; flowers turn yellow, plant grows tall and spindly, plant eventually becomes sterile.
- What to do
- Use appropriate insecticide to control leafhoppers (the carriers of the disease).
Damping Off or Seedling Rot
- What you'll see
- Death of new seedlings and yellowing of plants.
- What to do
- Crop Rotation.
Harvest & storage
How to tell it's ready to pick, and how to keep it once it's in.
- Keeps
- DaysBest eaten within a few days of picking.
- Ready to harvest
- Cut the outer leaves about a month after sowing, before the plant bolts in warm weather; for coriander seed, wait until it turns tan.
- Storing
- Stand the cut stems in water in the fridge and use within a few days; the leaves don't dry well. Store dried seed in a jar.
Culinary use & nutrition
What it's for in the kitchen, and the nutrients a 100 g raw serving is a notable source of.
In the kitchen
- Seasoning
Nutrition highlights
- Excellent source
- Vitamin K, Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Copper
- Good source
- Manganese, Vitamin E, Folate, Riboflavin, Potassium, Fiber
Share of the Daily Value in a 100 g raw serving (USDA FoodData Central).
Pollinators & wildlife
What this crop offers the garden's wildlife once it flowers — often the payoff for letting a bolting plant stand.
- Bees
- Honeybees and natives — bumble, mason, and sweat bees — working the flowers for pollen and nectar.
- Beneficial insects
- Hoverflies, lady beetles, and parasitoid wasps that keep aphids and caterpillars down.
The strongest umbel of the family here: let it bolt and the lacy white flowers pull in honey bees and sweat bees alongside hoverflies and green lacewings, so a bolted plant earns its keep twice.
Sources
Growing data on this page is drawn from UC Master Gardeners, Santa Clara County, Utah State University Extension, and the other references on our sources page.