Tomatillo
Physalis philadelphica
Solanaceae · nightshade family
Origin · Mesoamerica
- Matures
- 2–3 months
- Harvest
- Continuous · Annual
- Sun
- 6–8+ hrs
- Spacing
- 24–36 in
Planting window
When to sow, by microclimate — foggier blocks run a different calendar than sunnier ones.
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Foggy | ◐ | ◐ | ◐ | |||
| Sunny | ● | ● | ◐ |
| Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Foggy | ◐ | ◐ | ||||
| Sunny | ◐ |
Sunlight
How well it does at each level of direct sun per day.
Soil depth
Root room it needs — useful for sizing raised beds and containers.
Soil pH
The soil acidity it grows best in — most crops sit just below neutral, so this mostly matters for heavily amended or long-reused beds.
- Preferred range
- pH 6.0–7.0
Spacing
Room each plant needs — along the row and between rows — for sizing beds.
- In-row
- 24–36 in
- Between rows
- 40–48 in
Growth habit
The shape it makes in the bed and how tall it gets — what tells you whether to give it a trellis, a stake, or just room.
- Habit
- Upright
- Mature height
- 3–4 ft
Stands on its own; the tallest types appreciate a stake in wind.
Growing in containers
Whether it does well in a pot, planter, or window box — the SF balcony-and-deck question, weighing its footprint, form, and staying power, not just root depth.
Workable in a large, deep container with attentive watering and feeding.
How to start it
Sow it where it grows, or raise it under cover and set it out — and how far ahead to start the seedlings if it's the latter.
- Usually
- Transplant
- Start indoors
- 6–8 weeks ahead
Started under cover, then set out as a seedling.
Getting started
How it goes in the ground — how deep to sow or set it, and the soil temperature it needs to wake up. The cold-soil floor is the real limiter for direct-sowing in a foggy SF spring.
- Started from
- From seed
- Ideal soil temp
- 75–85°F
- Sow depth
- 0.5 in
- Time to emerge
- 7–14 days
Germinates between 60–90°F; happiest around 75–85°F.
Watering & feeding
How thirsty and how hungry it is — the water it wants and how much feeding the bed needs to keep it producing. In the fog belt even a thirsty crop drinks less than it would inland.
- Water need
- Moderate
- Feeding
- Moderate feeder
Wants steady, even moisture — roughly an inch a week, a little more in a heat spell.
A balanced feed worked into the bed at planting usually carries it through the season.
Fairly drought-tolerant, but even moisture grows uniform, quality fruit — don't overwater. A moderate feeder; too much nitrogen makes leafy, slow-fruiting plants.
Pests & diseases
What tends to trouble this crop — what it is, what you'll see, and what to do about it, least-toxic first.
USU: Tomatillos are naturally resistant to most diseases and pests. Early detection will help alleviate crop damage if problems should arise. See the following pest chart. Most insect damage will be to the leaves; the papery husk protects the fruit from pests.
Pests2
Aphids
- What it is
- Aphids have soft pear-shaped bodies with long legs and antennae and may be green, yellow, brown, red, or black depending on the species and the plants they feed on. A few species appear waxy or woolly due to the secretion of a waxy white or gray substance over their body surface.
- What you'll see
- Low to moderate numbers of leaf-feeding aphids aren't usually damaging in gardens or on trees. However, large populations can turn leaves yellow and stunt shoots; aphids can also produce large quantities of a sticky exudate known as honeydew, which often turns black with the growth of a sooty mold fungus.
- What to do
- Before planting vegetables, check surrounding areas for sources of aphids and remove these sources. On the other hand, these aphid-infested weeds can sometimes provide an early source of aphid natural enemies.
Flea Beetles
- What it is
- Their small size, enlarged back legs, characteristic shot-hole damage, and habit of jumping when disturbed make flea beetles easy to identify. There are numerous flea beetle species.
- What you'll see
- Adults feed mostly on leaves, leaving tiny pits or small holes at their feeding sites. Flea beetles feeding together can cover leaves with bleached, pitted areas or ragged holes.
- What to do
- Remove debris in the fall to remove any overwintering beetles. Reflective mulches applied very soon after planting and before plants become infected can be helpful.
Diseases3
Powdery Mildew
- What you'll see
- Older leaves and leaf petioles of plants with powdery mildew may be covered with a white powdery growth. Young leaves develop small circular white powdery spots that slowly enlarge to cover the leaflets.
- What to do
- In most cases, planting resistant varieties or avoiding the most susceptible varieties and following good cultural practices will adequately control powdery mildew. Provide enough water and avoid excess fertilizer.
Various viruses
- What you'll see
- Leaves are light green, mottled, malformed, dwarfed and curled. Early infection affects fruit shape and flavor. Viruses are transmitted by aphids and leafhoppers.
- What to do
- Control insects and destroy infected plants.
Root rots
- What you'll see
- Plants grow poorly and may wilt even when watered regularly.
- What to do
- Don’t over-water or grow where soils stay wet long after the irrigation is over.
Harvest & storage
How to tell it's ready to pick, and how to keep it once it's in.
- Keeps
- WeeksHolds a week or two in the fridge.
- Ready to harvest
- Pick when the papery husk has filled out and split, and the fruit inside is firm — usually 1-2 in across.
- Storing
- Leave the husks on and refrigerate; they keep a couple of weeks, longer than a tomato.
Culinary use & nutrition
What it's for in the kitchen, and the nutrients a 100 g raw serving is a notable source of.
In the kitchen
- Raw
- Boiled / steamed
- Soups & stews
- Pickled / preserved
Nutrition highlights
- Good source
- Vitamin C, Niacin
Share of the Daily Value in a 100 g raw serving (USDA FoodData Central).
Pollinators & wildlife
What this crop offers the garden's wildlife once it flowers — often the payoff for letting a bolting plant stand.
- Bees
- Honeybees and natives — bumble, mason, and sweat bees — working the flowers for pollen and nectar.
Unlike self-fruitful tomato it sets nothing on its own: bees have to carry pollen between two plants or there is no crop.
Sources
Growing data on this page is drawn from Utah State University Extension, University of Minnesota Extension, and the other references on our sources page.