Bush Bean
Phaseolus vulgaris
Fabaceae · legume family
- Matures
- 48–70 days
- Harvest
- Over a period · Annual
- Sun
- 6–8+ hrs
- Spacing
- 2–4 in
Planting window
When to sow, by microclimate — foggier blocks run a different calendar than sunnier ones.
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Foggy | ● | ● | ● | |||
| Sunny | ● | ● | ● |
| Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Foggy | ● | |||||
| Sunny | ● |
Well-suitedMarginalNot suited
Sunlight
How well it does at each level of direct sun per day.
<2 hrsNot suited
2–4 hrsNot suited
4–6 hrsMarginal
6–8 hrsWell-suited
8+ hrsWell-suited
Well-suitedMarginalNot suited
Soil depth
Root room it needs — useful for sizing raised beds and containers.
6–10"Not suited
10–15"Not suited
15–18"Marginal
18–24"Well-suited
Well-suitedMarginalNot suited
Spacing
Room each plant needs — along the row and between rows — for sizing beds.
- In-row
- 2–4 in
- Between rows
- 30 in
Growth habit
The shape it makes in the bed and how tall it gets — what tells you whether to give it a trellis, a stake, or just room.
- Habit
- Upright
- Mature height
- 1.5–2 ft
Stands on its own; the tallest types appreciate a stake in wind.
How to start it
Sow it where it grows, or raise it under cover and set it out — and how far ahead to start the seedlings if it's the latter.
- Usually
- Direct-sow
- Start indoors
- 3 weeks ahead
Direct-sowWell-suited
TransplantMarginal
Sown straight into the bed it will grow in.
Well-suitedMarginalNot suited
Getting started
How it goes in the ground — how deep to sow or set it, and the soil temperature it needs to wake up. The cold-soil floor is the real limiter for direct-sowing in a foggy SF spring.
- Started from
- From seed
- Ideal soil temp
- 75–85°F
- Sow depth
- 1–1.5 in
- Time to emerge
- 8–11 days
Germinates between 60–95°F; happiest around 75–85°F.
30°F110°F
IdealWorkable
Pests & diseases
What tends to trouble this crop — what it is, what you'll see, and what to do about it, least-toxic first.
Pests15
Aphids
- What it is
- Aphids have soft pear-shaped bodies with long legs and antennae and may be green, yellow, brown, red, or black depending on the species and the plants they feed on. A few species appear waxy or woolly due to the secretion of a waxy white or gray substance over their body surface.
- What you'll see
- Low to moderate numbers of leaf-feeding aphids aren't usually damaging in gardens or on trees. However, large populations can turn leaves yellow and stunt shoots; aphids can also produce large quantities of a sticky exudate known as honeydew, which often turns black with the growth of a sooty mold fungus.
- What to do
- Before planting vegetables, check surrounding areas for sources of aphids and remove these sources. On the other hand, these aphid-infested weeds can sometimes provide an early source of aphid natural enemies.
Armyworms
- What it is
- Armyworm larvae feed in groups, which distinguishes them from other vegetable pests such as corn earworms and loopers. Markings on newly hatched armyworms are usually hard to distinguish from those of other caterpillars; older larvae have distinct lengthwise stripes.
- What you'll see
- Armyworms may feed on the crowns of seedlings. On larger plants, armyworm caterpillars skeletonize leaves.
- What to do
- Handpick. Virus diseases, parasites (Hyposoter and Trichogramma), and general predators may be effective on caterpillars.
Bean Weevils
- What it is
- Common weevils found in beans are the cowpea weevil, Callosobruchus maculatus; broad bean weevil, Bruchus rufimanus; and the bean weevil, Acanthoscelides obtectus. Adult weevils found in beans are relatively small beetles, 0.13 - 0.2 inch in length, somewhat teardrop or triangular in shape, and dull-colored with white, reddish, or black markings.
- What you'll see
- Damage may occur in the garden or in storage. Weevil larvae feed within the bean pod and consume nearly the entire bean contents.
- What to do
- Be sure seeds are free of weevils before planting. Remove and destroy bean plants immediately after harvest.
Corn Earworm or Tomato Fruitworm
- What it is
- The corn earworm or tomato fruitworm is a common caterpillar pest of many vegetables and flowers. Newly hatched larvae have several rows of dark bristles on their backs.
- What you'll see
- Earworms feed on leaves, buds, and flowers of many vegetable crops. They destroy seedlings, bore into lettuce heads and bean pods, make deep watery cavities in fruit, and leave frass.
- What to do
- Handpick, and avoid spraying with insecticides. Bacillus thuringiensis may kill 40 to 60% of the population but must be applied just after eggs hatch and before caterpillars enter fruit.
Cucumber Beetles
- What it is
- Adult beetles are shiny with black heads, long antennae, and about 1/4 inch long. Adults may be striped or spotted, depending upon species.
- What you'll see
- Adults feed on the leaves of many vegetables as well as on soft fruit. Shoots and blossoms may also be consumed.
- What to do
- Management of cucumber beetles is difficult. The best strategy for most vegetable gardens may be to place protective cloth over emerging plants and remove it when plants are old enough to tolerate damage.
Cutworms
- What it is
- Cutworms are dull brown caterpillars ranging in length from 1 to 2 inches when fully grown. They curl into a C-shape when disturbed.
- What you'll see
- Cutworms feed on blossoms and leaves of many ornamental plants and attack most garden crops. They clip off seedling stems near or just below the soil level.
- What to do
- Cutworms are pests mainly in the spring. Destroy crop residues; keep garden weed-free in winter.
Earwigs
- What it is
- The adult earwig is readily identified by a pair of prominent appendages that resemble forceps at the tail end of its body. Used for defense, the forceps are somewhat curved in the male but straighter in the female.
- What you'll see
- European earwigs feed on a variety of dead and living organisms, including insects, mites, and growing shoots of plants. They are voracious feeders on soft-bodied insects such as aphids and insect eggs and can exert significant biological control under some circumstances.
- What to do
- Management of earwigs requires an integrated program that takes advantage of their habitat preferences. Initiate a regular trapping program.
Leafhoppers
- What it is
- Leaf stippling (bleached specks) is commonly the most obvious indication that leafhoppers or certain other arthropods that suck plant juices are present. Because discolored spots or overall bleaching of leaves are also caused by lace bugs, plant bugs and other true bugs, spider mites, and thrips, examine the underside of leaves for the arthropods themselves to distinguish the cause of damage.
- What you'll see
- Leafhopper feeding causes leaves to develop pale specks (stippling). Leaves and shoot tips fed upon by an abundance of leafhoppers may turn yellow then brown and curl and die.
- What to do
- In most situations, leafhoppers are just an annoyance or curiosity and do not threaten plant survival. Leafhoppers have many natural enemies, including assassin bugs, brown lacewings, damsel bugs, green lacewings, lady beetles, minute pirate bugs, and spiders.
Loopers
- What it is
- Loopers are green caterpillars with several white stripes down their backs. They arch their backs as they crawl, this looping movement giving them their name.
- What you'll see
- Loopers eat irregular holes in leaves, most often older leaves. They may also bore holes in lettuce and cabbage heads or damage fruit.
- What to do
- Handpick. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis or spinosad; they are effective against loopers, especially when caterpillars are small.
Snails and Slugs
- What you'll see
- Snails and slugs feed on a variety of living plants and on decaying plant matter. They create irregular holes with smooth edges on leaves and flowers by scraping with their rasp-like tongues.
- What to do
- It will not be possible to eliminate some shelters, such as low ledges on fences, the undersides of wooden decks, and water meter boxes, so make a regular practice of trapping and removing snails and slugs from these areas. The survivors congregate in the remaining shelters, where you can more easily locate and remove them.
Spider Mites
- What it is
- To the naked eye, spider mites look like tiny, moving dots; however, you can see them easily with a 10X hand lens. Adult females, the largest forms, are less than 1/20 inch long.
- What you'll see
- Mites cause damage by sucking cell contents from leaves. A small number of mites usually isn’t reason for concern, but very high populations—levels high enough to show visible damage to leaves—can damage plants, especially herbaceous ones.
- What to do
- Cultural practices can have a significant impact on spider mites. Midseason washing of trees and vines with water to remove dust may help prevent serious late-season mite infestations.
Stink Bugs
- What it is
- Adult stink bugs are distinguished from other insects by the large triangle shape with a rounded rear end (scutellum) that occurs on top of the back, covering the rear of the thorax and front portion of the abdomen. In comparison with most insects, adults are wider relative to their length.
- What you'll see
- Adults suck and feed on plants with their strawlike mouthparts. Stink bugs attack a variety of fruits, nuts, and vegetables from beans to tomatoes and apples to stone fruits.
- What to do
- Handpick the bugs and their eggs from small plants. Parasites and general predators can contribute to the control of some stink bug species if natural enemies are not destroyed, such as by the application of persistent, broad-spectrum insecticides.
Thrips
- What it is
- Most adult thrips are elongate, slender, minute (less than 1/20 inch long), and have long fringes on the margins of both pairs of their long, narrow wings. Immatures (called larvae or nymphs) are oblong or slender and elongate and lack wings.
- What you'll see
- Thrips feeding on plants can damage fruit, leaves, and shoots and very noticeably affect plants’ cosmetic appearance. However, thrips rarely kill or threaten the survival of trees and shrubs.
- What to do
- Thrips species that feed on many different plant species often move into gardens and landscapes when plants in weedy areas or grasslands begin to dry in spring or summer. Avoid planting susceptible plants next to these areas, and control nearby weeds that are alternate hosts of pest thrips.
Vegetable Leafminers
- What it is
- Adult leafminers are small, active, black flies often with a prominent yellow triangle between the bases of the wings. The head behind the eyes is mostly black.
- What you'll see
- Leafminers attack many different vegetable and flower hosts, including cole crops, cucurbits, tomatoes, peas, beans, aster, begonia, dahlia, impatiens, lily, marigold, petunia, and verbena. Adult female leafminers puncture leaves and sometimes petals to feed on exuding sap.
- What to do
- Leafminers rarely require treatment in gardens. Clip off and remove older infested leaves.
Whiteflies
- What you'll see
- Whiteflies use their piercing, needlelike mouthparts to suck sap from phloem, the food-conducting tissues in plant stems and leaves. Large populations can cause leaves to turn yellow, appear dry, or fall off plants.
- What to do
- Whiteflies have many natural enemies, and outbreaks frequently occur when these natural enemies have been disturbed or destroyed by pesticides, dust buildup, or other factors. General predators include lacewings, bigeyed bugs, and minute pirate bugs.
Diseases5
Bean Rust
- What you'll see
- Plants infected with rust have dry reddish, yellowish, or orange spore masses or pustules primarily on the lower surface of leaves. Bean pods may also show symptoms.
- What to do
- Space plants to allow for adequate air circulation. Avoid overhead sprinklers, as rust spores are spread by wind and splashing water.
Damping Off of Beans
- What you'll see
- In plants infected with the Pythium or Rhizoctonia fungus seeds rot and young seedlings damp off. Symptoms include water-soaked or reddish brown lesions with the eventual collapse of the hypocotyl at or below ground.
- What to do
- Planting at a temperature and at a date optimum for the plant and in soil that is moist but not overly wet is the first line of defense. Prepare raised planting beds so that the soil has good drainage.
Fusarium Root Rot on Beans
- What you'll see
- Plants infected with Fusarium solani wilt and turn yellow. Brick red lesions of variable size with diffuse margins develop on belowground stems and tap roots.
- What to do
- The fungus that causes Fusarium wilt can survive in the soil for many years. Wilt diseases can be avoided in many cases by planting tolerant cultivars.
Mosaic Viruses of Beans
- What you'll see
- Three mosaic viruses infect beans: bean common mosaic, bean yellow mosaic, and cucumber mosaic. Symptoms may include yellow or green mosaic or mottle patterns of infected leaves, vein banding, and interveinal yellowing.
- What to do
- This group of diseases is spread from plant to plant by aphids and leafhoppers. Reflective mulches may reduce or delay infections as it helps repel insects from plants.
Powdery Mildew on Peas and Beans
- What you'll see
- Powdery mildew usually appears first as yellow spots on the upper leaf surface of older leaves; these spots develop the characteristic powdery growth and symptoms spread to the undersides of leaves and stems. The leaves may also curl and dry out.
- What to do
- Powdery mildew is favored by warm, dry days and cool, damp nights. In most cases, planting resistant varieties or avoiding the most susceptible varieties and following good cultural practices will adequately control powdery mildew.
Sources
Every figure above is backed by these.
- UC Master Gardeners, San Mateo–SF Countiesbacks plantingWindow, startMethod · Foggy & Sunny calendars, Bean, snap row: seed Apr-Jul in both microclimates. Start method: Foggy & Sunny calendars, Bean, snap row: (S) sow seed only.
- Golden Gate Gardening (Pam Peirce)backs plantingWindow, sunlight, lifecycle, harvestStyle · Foggier/Sunnier planting-times charts, Beans, Snap (bush): Apr-Jul; GGG snap bean entry: full sun. Habit and harvest: annual, over-a-period — from this source's entry for this crop.
- UC Master Gardeners, Santa Clara County (Containers)backs soilDepth · Soil-depth-by-crop, deep-rooted (18-24 in): beans.
- UC Master Gardeners, Sonoma County (Planting Summary)backs daysToMaturity, inRowSpacing, rowSpacing, startMethod · Vegetable Planting Summary, Beans, bush row: 48-70 days, 2-4 in in-row spacing. Between-row spacing 30 in (Beans, bush row). Start method: Vegetable Planting Summary, Beans, bush row: method D (usually direct-sown).
- UC Master Gardeners, Sacramento County (Germination)backs germination · GN 154 soil-temp table, beans-snap row: 60/75–85/95°F; germinationDays 8–11 derived from Table 2 across the optimum band.
- USDA GRIN Taxonomybacks botany · Bush and pole beans are the same species — they differ by growth habit, not taxon.
- Colorado State University Extension (Master Gardener)backs plantingDepth · Table 2 Warm Season, Beans snap row: 1-1 1/2 in.
- University of Minnesota Extensionbacks growthHabit · UMN Extension 'Growing beans in home gardens': 'Bush beans are upright plants that do not need support, growing about two feet tall' — habit upright (freestanding); height 18–24 in from 'about two feet tall'.
- UC Master Gardeners, Santa Clara Countybacks startMethod · Start method: Planting chart: Beans carry both rows; From seed to transplant 3 weeks. Transplanting rated marginal — beans resent root disturbance and every source here sows them in place.