All plants

Garlic

Allium sativum

Amaryllidaceae · onion family

Origin · Central Asia · Western Asia

Matures
4–6 months
Harvest
Once · Annual
Sun
6–8+ hrs
Spacing
3–5 in
Botanical engraving of Garlic

Planting window

When to sow, by microclimate — foggier blocks run a different calendar than sunnier ones.

JanFebMarAprMayJun
Foggy●●
Sunny●●
JulAugSepOctNovDec
Foggy●●●
Sunny●●●
Well-suitedMarginalNot suited
See in planting calendar

Sunlight

How well it does at each level of direct sun per day.

<2 hrsNot suited
2–4 hrsNot suited
4–6 hrsMarginal
6–8 hrsWell-suited
8+ hrsWell-suited
Well-suitedMarginalNot suited

Soil depth

Root room it needs — useful for sizing raised beds and containers.

6–10"Well-suited
10–15"Well-suited
15–18"Well-suited
18–24"Well-suited
Well-suitedMarginalNot suited

Soil pH

The soil acidity it grows best in — most crops sit just below neutral, so this mostly matters for heavily amended or long-reused beds.

Preferred range
pH 6.2–6.8

Spacing

Room each plant needs — along the row and between rows — for sizing beds.

In-row
3–5 in
Between rows
12–18 in

Growth habit

The shape it makes in the bed and how tall it gets — what tells you whether to give it a trellis, a stake, or just room.

Habit
Upright
Mature height
12–18 in

Stands on its own; the tallest types appreciate a stake in wind.

Growing in containers

Whether it does well in a pot, planter, or window box — the SF balcony-and-deck question, weighing its footprint, form, and staying power, not just root depth.

Thrives in pots

Happy in a pot, planter, or window box — no garden bed required.

How to start it

Sow it where it grows, or raise it under cover and set it out — and how far ahead to start the seedlings if it's the latter.

Usually
Direct-sow
Direct-sowWell-suited
TransplantNot suited

Sown straight into the bed it will grow in.

Well-suitedMarginalNot suited

Getting started

How it goes in the ground — how deep to sow or set it, and the soil temperature it needs to wake up. The cold-soil floor is the real limiter for direct-sowing in a foggy SF spring.

Started from
From cloves
Ideal soil temp
65–85°F
Set depth
2–3 in

Sprouts between 32–95°F; happiest around 65–85°F.

30°F110°F
IdealWorkable

Watering & feeding

How thirsty and how hungry it is — the water it wants and how much feeding the bed needs to keep it producing. In the fog belt even a thirsty crop drinks less than it would inland.

Water need
Moderate

Wants steady, even moisture — roughly an inch a week, a little more in a heat spell.

Feeding
Moderate feeder

A balanced feed worked into the bed at planting usually carries it through the season.

Water through spring bulbing for good size, then stop as the leaves yellow so the bulbs cure. A moderate feeder — lighter than bulb onions; a nitrogen boost as leaves grow in spring helps.

Pests & diseases

What tends to trouble this crop — what it is, what you'll see, and what to do about it, least-toxic first.

Pests2

Thrips
What it is
Most adult thrips are elongate, slender, minute (less than 1/20 inch long), and have long fringes on the margins of both pairs of their long, narrow wings. Immatures (called larvae or nymphs) are oblong or slender and elongate and lack wings.
What you'll see
Thrips feeding on plants can damage fruit, leaves, and shoots and very noticeably affect plants’ cosmetic appearance. However, thrips rarely kill or threaten the survival of trees and shrubs.
What to do
Thrips species that feed on many different plant species often move into gardens and landscapes when plants in weedy areas or grasslands begin to dry in spring or summer. Avoid planting susceptible plants next to these areas, and control nearby weeds that are alternate hosts of pest thrips.
More on thrips at UC IPM
Onion Maggot
What you'll see
White worm that feeds on seedlings, roots or bulbs.
What to do
Use crop rotation, avoid excessive amounts of organic matter, and apply insecticides at planting if maggots have been a problem in the past. Destroy infected plants.
More on onion maggot at Utah State University Extension

Diseases1

Neck Rot
What you'll see
Fungal disease that occurs during storage. Watery decay inside the bulb.
What to do
Avoid excess moisture near harvest. Cure bulbs well before storing.
More on neck rot at Utah State University Extension

Harvest & storage

How to tell it's ready to pick, and how to keep it once it's in.

Keeps
MonthsA long keeper — stores for months.
Ready to harvest
Dig at the end of June when the lower leaves brown and die back; stop watering about a month before.
Storing
Cure the bulbs a few weeks in a warm, airy, shaded spot, then store in a cool, dark, well-ventilated pantry for months.

Culinary use & nutrition

What it's for in the kitchen, and the nutrients a 100 g raw serving is a notable source of.

In the kitchen

  • Seasoning

Nutrition highlights

Excellent source
Vitamin B6, Manganese, Vitamin C, Copper, Selenium
Good source
Thiamin, Calcium, Protein, Phosphorus, Zinc

Share of the Daily Value in a 100 g raw serving (USDA FoodData Central).

Pollinators & wildlife

What this crop offers the garden's wildlife once it flowers — often the payoff for letting a bolting plant stand.

No notable draw for pollinators — its flowers offer them little.

Cultivated garlic has lost the ability to set fertile seed: the scape is usually cut for the kitchen, and the few flowers that do form abort into bulbils instead of opening, so there is next to nothing here for a pollinator.

Sources

Growing data on this page is drawn from Utah State University Extension, UC Master Gardeners, San Mateo–SF Counties, and the other references on our sources page.